U.S. Ship Warren Dec. 1839 My Dear Mother. Immediately after my last to you we sail'd from Havana (5th in.), and cruised off and on the port until the evening of the 7th, waiting the arrival of Commadore Thubrick but as he did not make his appearance, and the weather indicated a norther, we made sail for Key West, and arrived the following afternoon. This Key is a low, level island, five miles long & one mile in the broadest part, cover'd with a good growth of wood, 'tho very deficient in sail. The population is more about five hundred souls, and there are from 80 to 100 dwelling houses and several large warehouses, and the place is dependent upon the wrecking business for its importance mostly but a number of Smacks come here every Autumn from Connecticut and remain until Spring, supplying the Havana Market with fresh fish, which they catch on the Fortugas' Bank, and carry alive to Havana in wells occupying the greater part of the smacks hold and grated to admit the fresh sea water. I found an old friend and shipmate here, Mr Brown of Norfolk Va. and formerly a Capt. Clerk in the navy; He is now quite a rich man, married to a fine little woman and having resided here for the last 15 years, is one of the principle merchants of the place & has a large warehouse for storing merchandize wrecked on neighbouring Keys, and Cape Florida which he buys on speculation when sold on account of the underwriters. I took tea and passed Sunday Evening in the most agreeable manner with his family, and found him the same warm friend he was in 1823, the last time we saw each other. In the afternoon we walk'd to the ground, where nearly one hundred of our naval officers lie buried, and strange to say, out of all that number the graves of only two can be pointed out by the Resident on the Key, visc, Arthur Bainbridge and Doct. Edgar, the last known by a headstone; the former by nothing except the recollection of Mr Brown, who attended his funeral and read the service over his grave, and subsequently had a small fence erected around it, but long since fallen to the ground and now partly covering the same. The range upon which all these graves are situated is now passing into private hands, being the most eligible situation for building dwelling houses, upon the Key. A few days before our arrival a gentleman purchased the very spot, where the remains of poor Arthur, my old friend and shipmate, are reposing, and I have given orders to have them carefully removed to the Burial Ground, consecrated by the present inhabitants to their friends, and an appropriate stone erected to designate the shot Mr Brown will attend and see everything done, which is very gratifying to my feelings. - In my walks about the woods, I saw some very curious and valuable plants. One, a Cactus speciocissimus, quite a tree, ten inches diameter in the trunk with limbs shooting from it, four or five feet above the ground to the height of 25 or 30 feet, all in a perpendicular direction. I did not think it the same plant which Dear Em has, although the description of the blossom makes it somewhat similar: Several limbs lie broken from the tree, and were well rooted, from which I selected two fine plants, and attained three other varieties of the Cacti said to be beautiful. A very curious plant abounds in this island, "Air Plant", which grows on bushes and dead branches of trees, deriving all its nourishment from sources independent of its roots. Several stems like that of the Gladiolus, shoot up from its centre, and the flower, a delicate, small blue elongated blossom, puts out just [2] above the little leaf like the Gladiolus, and the stem exactly resembles it except in color which is scarlet (before it buds assent). I gather'd several and packed them with my Cacti in a fine box which I hope to get safely home n the Spring. Capt. Spencer had determined to pass a week here, but as he could find no amusement, suddenly changed his mind and order'd the ship ready for sea on Tuesday night. I regretted this for Mr Brown and some of his friends were to dine with me on that day, and after all, we were prevented by head winds and bad weather from going to sea until the time originally appointed, but were shut up all the time on board ship, being under sailing orders. On Friday 13th inst we sail'd for Havana, and being only 75 miles across, Capt Spencer at night gave up the charge of the ship to me as usual, for we would make the land near midnight and he was anxious to get into port. This of course kept me all night on the look out, and at 2 o'clock A.M. I made the Havana Light, stood close in with the land all at daylight had the ship in the very place[struck: d] desired. The Levant, Smooth was in sight and had been cruising off the port several days by order of the Comdr, instead of being allowed to go into port and want his arrival; similar orders were sent for us to come out of the Havana and cruise off the port until he arrived from Pensacola where he is no doubt waiting to hear of his wife's safe arrival in Baltimore!! after communication with the Levant, we made sail for Matanzas being required to visit that port, and arrived at 1/30 P.M Sunday 15th: This is a noble harbour and very easy of access, and had many merchant vessels in it waiting for Sugar and Molasses, mostly Americans. A Slaver ran in just before us having landed 280 Africans 15 leagues from the harbour, the same morning, and a steamboat was sent after them which also went into port at the same time, and landed the slaves in open day although against the laws of Spain, but the Governor here as in Havana receives a handsome bribe for closing his eyes. An English Schooner chased this and another with 550 on board and succeeded in capturing the latter, on the South side of Cuba. The Slaver, to induce the cruiser to give up his chase, threw overboard several of his Cargo, thinking while they were picking up these poor wretches he could make his escape, but John Bull pushed on for the whole (being worth five pounds a head to him paid by his Government) and caught them; now he has the whole crew, I trust every rascal of them will be hung for murder. I went on shore and visited the market where these poor creatures thin, and emaciated were exhibited for sale and was told they would average $450 each, although nearly 2/3 were quite young children. On Tuesday the news reach'd us that they Comdr had arrived off Havana, and the Boat of Wednesday confirmed the report, accordingly at 2 A.M Thursday we proceeded to sea, the Capt as usual putting all under my charge, and [inserted: by] early daylight I beat the ship out of the Bay and discharged our Pilot. at 3 P.M. we were off the Moro, but found only the Levant, nothing haveing been heard of the Commodore since our departure, a real take in, for now we must keep the sea, backing and filling off a charming port, without the privelege of enjoying ourselves in the only port worth visiting, merely to gratify the vanity of a man who wishes to play [3] the Commodore, and that to in a truly rediculous manner. His conduct and measures have of late, not only disgusted most of the officers of his Squadron, but made him many bitter enemies; so much childish vanity and the influence of a weak, foolish wife!! You will see the death of Lt. Ludlow on board the Levant "suddenly". He was the oldest son of the late Purser of that name, and followed in his footsteps also; in a fit of delirium he jump'd overboard and was drowned, but for the sake of his friends we don't desire to make the facts public, for he was a good officer, and one of the most amicable, affectionate young men I ever knew, universally popular and generally regretted. Upon arriving off this place, we sent a Boat in for Letters but although many vessels had arrived in short passages from New York, every officer but Lieut. Lanman was disappointed. Capt Spencer's health is so bad, he being no doubt in a consumption, that I should not be surprised to find myself Commander pro tem of the Warren this winter, if the Commodore will only clear out with his ship to windward soon, otherwise his first Lt. would come here and I should go to the Frigate, a change I by no means desire, for now I am my own master and have all to say, but on board the Frigate I should have a Commodore who interferes with every thing and a Capt. who, performs in fact the Executive Officer's duty, leaving the latter a mere Cypher!!. - While I was wandering about the woods at Key West, I would have given anything to have had Dear Em to enjoy with me the beautiful display of rich flowers etc that were constantly presented to my view; many times I should have [inserted: been] delighted with the society of our good friends Doct. Ives, whose knowledge of Botany among the countless number of splendid plants every where to be seen in this climate would be invaluable to him inc[text loss] render all walks in his company truly charming, notwithstanding the trifling objections of various snakes, scorpions, lizards etc. that swarm in the woods. - The other day a Slaver sailed from Havana under American Colors and old Smoot fired ahead of her to bring her to; this the follow had no idea of and sailing two knots to the Levants one, kept on his course for the Coast of Africa. Her Capt is an American, and well acquainted with our Sailmaker and Gunner, with whom he dined on board while we were in Havana. I saw him and knew that he was to sail for the Coast, and heard him say they offer'd him $3,500 but he demanded $4,000 to take the vessel out. I met a gentleman at Matanzas who was well acquainted with Mr J. Thorndike of Boston. He informed me, that Mr Towned one of the most valuable sugar Estates on the Island, and with sufficient force and proper cultivation could soon be made worth $1,000,000!!! being valued at this present time with the force on it ("100 niggers") fully one half that amount you will recollect that Mr T gave up all his property but this Estate & passed the following winter on it - he expended a great deal of money in buying slaves and clearing the land, and now has a fair prospect of being a much richer man than ever. - I was struck with the manner of working oxen here - a yoke is fitted to the neck back of the horns and a grass mat on the front just blow the horns, over which a lashing is passed to secure the yoke and the cattle perform all their labour by the head instead of shoulder, and apparently with much more ease to themselves, carrying equally as heavy loads as those in our country over much rougher roads which the inhabitants say could not be done by cattle worked "American fashion". Monday 23rd The Commodore is in sight off the Moro, but the Current set up 18 or 20 miles to the Eastwd last night and we shall not reach him until afternoon. on Saty. night and Sunday it blew a norther and as usual I was put in charge and up all the time - now this is a making me do Capts Duty without pay as credit and I am tired of [4] it and shall protest against being made such a convenience of the moment we get into port, for if the present incumbent is unfit for his station, he ought in justice to me as well as himself to give up his command. If he was a poor man I would not say one word but having an income of 40 to $50.000 pr ann, and not spending hardly the compound interest of that, is too contemptible for any living being and I take no pleasure in serving his avarice and vanity for I am almost worn out. Tuesday 24th We saw the Commodore this morning and being to the Westwd of the Port, he succeeded in getting in, while the Levant & this ship will have to keep the sea until tomorrow, the current having set us to the Eastwd - at Matanzas I visited the Sloop from Florida with 36 Blood Hounds on board for the Governor, to be used in the Indian War - They can be trained easily and will point out the Indian in ambush and save many lives - They are a remarkable sagacious animal and used to hunt runaway slaves with astonishing success and without injury except when violence is offer'd to them and then look out. This will no doubt prove a humane and successful experiment - The cost of each Dog $70. - Wednesday 24th Havana - 2 PM - We have just anchored & run in under all sail and came to in very handsome style with the eyes of thousands upon us, without the slightest occurrence or drawback to regret. I feel now the want of rest exceedingly, having been up all last night to keep the ship close in with the Light. From Pensacola I recd several News Papers and a gratifying letter from Dear Bridge brought by the Commodore. A vessel sails for New York early tommorrow, I am informed, by which I send this. My health is perfectly good and all on board continue well. Give my love to sisters and best respects to all friends. God bless you Dear Mother - truly your fond son James T. Gerry [address:] Mrs. Ann Gerry Orange Street New Haven Connecticut [docket:] Dec. 1839 Dear Brother James